| Palaces for Rent |
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| December 2006 | |
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After listening to my friends talk endlessly about their
summer travels, I felt it was my turn to escape the 9-to-5 routine. Restless
for a radical change, I broke into my piggy bank, converted all my nickels and
dimes into traveler's checks, polished up my favorite credit cards and hopped a
silver jet to Visitors to Rajasthan choosing to stay at one of its many palaces will be pleasantly surprised to discover how grand it can be. They will be awakened by the cacophony of birds and greeted by peacocks, camels, elephants – and even monkeys. They will enjoy yoga lessons, massages, safaris, horseback riding, and health clubs and have on call their own butler around the clock. In brief, their stay will be filled with music and song, with a veritable fairy-tale choice of amusements to keep them smiling. The price tag can be reasonable or expensive – depending on
room standards, season and the palace. Some palaces can cost as little as $100
or as much as several thousand dollars per night. If your budget limits your
extravagance, you can do as I did at the
In season, you also will see your share of weddings.
Families dressed in traditional clothes – with brass bands, elephants, camels,
dancing and more – parade through the streets. At the When I was considering my travel options to Rajasthan, my
first thought was to book a compartment on the Palace on Wheels (www.theluxurytrains.com ),
a luxury train that departs every Wednesday from October to March) per night, you will be treated like a maharajah (king) or maharani (queen) during an eight-day all-inclusive trip – visiting major sites from the Taj Mahal to the Lake Palace. Unfortunately, during my visit, the train was booked, and I had to do the next best thing and use plane, train and car. This worked out well for me because by traveling on my own, I was free to stay in each city for several days and tour them at my leisure. JAIPUR Designed in 1727, according to the ancient Hindu treatise on architecture (Shilpa Shastra), Jaipur is the first planned city in north India. The capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur is known for its grid-like wide streets and its pink-painted buildings. A favorite palace in Jaipur with visiting celebrities is the 47-acre Rambagh Palace. I traveled to the palace, not on elephant as I had dreamed, but by air-conditioned car. Those who visit in groups can arrange to be greeted at the palace festively – with elephants and turbaned ushers, showering you with rose petals. I, on the other hand, arrived quietly and was discretely registered in my palace suite, like a visiting dignitary. The Rambagh Palace, originally built in 1835, was the former residence of the Maharajah of Jaipur. It is located about 10 minutes from Jaipur’s walled city. The rooms range from very nice to fabulous – with dining rooms, sitting rooms, fireplaces and views of the gardens. I spent three nights at the palace and would’ve spent a lifetime, but at about $450 per night, I knew it could never be in this lifetime. (Rates for rooms/suites begin at about $350 and soar to thousands.)
The 17th-century Raj Mahal Palace, a former residence of a maharani and the British elite, had many famous guests stay here, including Queen Elizabeth and Jacqueline Kennedy. Unfortunately, the palace has lost its glow, and it now requires major renovation. Rooms are as low as $60 per night. Perhaps the most photographed site in Jaipur is the five-story Hawa Mahal (the Palace of Winds). Its striking, pink-and-red-sandstone facade, lined with honeycomb windows and balconies, faces the main street. It was designed in 1799 to conceal queens and ladies of the court while gazing from the window. Visitors may see the Hawa Mahal from within the palace and enjoy its spectacular center-city view from its latticed windows. The best time to visit is in the morning, when the sunlight is breaking through the windows and the chambers are aglow with light. A high point of my visit to Jaipur was my elephant ride up a rugged hill to the Amber Fort. Unlike my other elephant rides, I rode up a treacherous hill on the side of a gaily painted, 9-foot-tall mammal. All that kept me from sliding off the elephant’s chair into the valley below was my will. Each wiggle of the elephant brought me closer to the edge and the 100- foot drop. Several times during my 15-minute ride I was sure I would lose my 10-course Indian breakfast. The Amber Fort is a mix of red sandstone and white marble in Mogul and Hindu style. This sixteenth century fort hides within its somber exterior reminders of its glorious past; besides the usual temples, gardens and royal apartments, there are stunning frescoes, solid silver doors, antique furniture, intricately inlaid panels and ceilings and walls cleverly designed with mirror pieces to catch and reflect light. JODHPUR The old walled city of Jodhpur, known as the blue city, is nestled within the Thar Desert. It prospered, especially during the 16th century, because of its strategic location on the Delhi-Gujarat trade route. Today Jodhpur is an important center for exporting handicrafts. Despite its current prosperity, Jodhpur has not lost its historical character and it still evokes images of bygone years. The 16th-century Bal Samand Lake Palace, which is a nice bargain palace hotel (about 20 minutes from Jodhpur), was my home for two nights. Built like a fortress, the intricately carved red sandstone palace faces a 12th-century man-made lake. For about $230 per night, you can enjoy the serenity and otherworld atmosphere of the palace’s comfortably large and airy suites, overlooking the garden or lake. Each suite is attractively furnished in a mix of Rajasthani and colonial furniture. Although the hotel doesn’t offer the amenities associated with major Heritage Hotels, it is still worth a visit. You may, though, want to avoid renting a garden room. They are converted stables at half the price of a suite. Lacking in charm, they are simply functional rooms with a private entrance and patio. A better buy for your money is the Ajit Bhawan Palace Resort. This 1940s palace, with arched windows, carved balconies and cupolas, is India’s first Heritage Hotel. Made from red stone with a large dome in the center, it has a reputation for offering visitors warm Rajput hospitality in a desert setting. The hotel successfully mixes old world elegance with modern comfort. Because members of the royal family occupy a suite here, you will feel like personal guests of royalty. Automobile lovers will have the pleasure of being transported about the area in vintage cars (dated from 1928 to 1948). Rates per night start at about $100. The Umaid Bhawan, the principal residence of the royal family, is considered one of India’s many grand hotels. Built between 1928 and 1943, the hotel appeared to be a cold, expensive mausoleum of marble and stone in Indo-European and Art-Deco style. Many prominent people have stayed here including former President Bill Clinton’s daughter, Chelsea. Prices begin at $400 and rise majestically. To experience its grandeur, I decided to have lunch (about $35) on the verandah, overlooking its beautifully maintained garden, which turned out to be an excellent decision. If the palaces are beyond your budget, the next best way to experience luxury is to visit the Meherangarh Fort, which is run by the Maharajah of Jodhpur. Although the fort dates to 1459, most of what remains today was built between 1638 and 1678. Perched on a 400-foot-high cliff overlooking the blue city, the fort flaunts its sandstone facade to the entire city. A winding uphill road, designed to make access by enemies difficult, leads to the main entrance. Inside the medieval fort are carved panels and porches, stained glass windows, and ornate royal palaces with exotic names like Phool Mahal (Flower Palace), Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace) and Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace). Next to one of its seven gates to the fort is a wall with the handprints of the widows who performed sati (suicide) on their husband’s pyre. In the fort’s museum, there is a collection of palanquins, cradles, solid silver howdahs (elephant seats), musical instruments, costumes, furniture and other period objects. It is an excellent example of the glorious past so ostentatiously characterizing Rajputana (Land of Kings). UDAIPUR The romantic city of Udaipur is ringed by the Aravalli Range and blessed with four lakes and many Rajput-era palaces. Known as the city of lakes and the “Venice” of India, Udaipur still maintains a feeling of history untouched by modernity. Of the many palaces in Udaipur the most famous is the 17th-century Lake Palace. This white stone structure sits solidly in the middle of Lake Pichola on a natural rock formation. From the shore, it resembles a luxury liner with lattice balconies, filigreed screens, delicate cupolas and stain-glass windows adrift on the azure water. Once it was a summer resort for former rulers; today it is a very chic hotel. Rates begin at about $550. On the shores of Lake Pichola, facing the Lake Palace, are two other noteworthy palaces, Shiv Newas and the Fateh Prakash. The Shiv Newas has hosted many important guests including Queen Elizabeth II and the Royal Highness, the Duke and Duchess of Kent. Built in the early 20th century, the palace always has been considered a royal guesthouse. All the rooms of this crescent-shaped palace face a courtyard pool and Lake Pichola. If you visit only for dinner, you should book a table by the pool. The music, the shimmering water, the moonlight all magically transform the moment into something romantic. Its neighboring palace, the Fateh Prakash, also was built in the 20th century, and primarily was used for royal functions. The hotel rooms and suites are furnished with antiques and original paintings that have been with the royal family for generations. From almost any room, you can enjoy a splendid view of the lake. Staying at either palace costs anywhere from $250 and more per night. For those on a budget, you can get a glimpse of royal lifestyle in Udaipur by taking a tour of the City Palace (about $3 with a camera) and a boat trip to Jag Mandir (also about $3). The 16th-century City Palace was built on a natural rock foundation. From outside, it is a huge mass of stone, with turrets, canopies and ornately carved balconies, facing Lake Palace and Jag Mandir; from inside, it is a lavishly decorated palace with mirrors and ornamental tiles, stained-glass windows, antique furniture and paintings, including scenes of royal processions, games and festivals. Whichever Rajasthan palaces you decide to visit, the best time to make the trip is between November and March, when the temperatures are in the 80s. For a list of palace hotels (and other heritage properties), visit www.heritagehotels.com or www.indianheritagehotels.com .
*Photos by Joe David |
By Joe David
What makes Rajasthan special is that life has not changed
there significantly for centuries. It isn’t unusual to see caparisoned and
brightly painted elephants parade through the streets in full Rajput pomp,
women wrapped in mirrored inlaid saris sell spices and trinkets and
hip-swinging dancers, known as mujra, break into dance at the sight of you. 
Another excellent palace hotel is the 260-year-old Jai Mahal
Palace. Set on 18 landscaped acres, it has mogul gardens on three levels and
regal rooms overlooking the gardens and swimming pool. Visitors will experience
the luxury once known to kings and courtesans. Located near the shopping area
and the historical monuments, it was the former residence of the prime minister
of Jaipur. Rooms begin at about $225.
